THE ROYAL DISCIPLINE
OUR GOODYEAR WELTED SHOES

The dream of every shoe connoisseur. This traditional technique, which was patented by Charles Goodyear Jr. in the 19th century, involves 200 - 300 work steps and still makes the difference in quality today. The welted shoe is known for its particularly high durability, ease of repair and stability of fit. In this type of shoe, the insole is sewn to the upper leather, and at the same time the welt is sewn onto the outside of the shoe (see illustration of welt stitching). This seam is not visible from the outside. Then the frame is sewn to the outsole (outsole seam). The insole is not punctured and thus prevents water from entering the shoe. The breathable and insulating footbed filled with cork mass takes on the shape of the foot after a long period of wear, giving the shoe an incomparable fit.

BASIC TYPES OF CLASSIC MENs SHOE MODELS

A shoe model is primarily determined by the way it is made. A shoe type is first defined by its method of closure: lace-up (closed or open), buckle (monkstrap) or slip-on.

The oxford is a lace-up shoe with closed lacing where the converging fastening parts are sewn under the front leaf and these close via a sewn-on tongue.

The Derby is a lace-up shoe with open lacing, i.e. the sides rest on the front, which in turn merges into a tongue. In contrast to the Oxford, the two fastening parts of the Derby are open at the front. It is particularly popular for feets with a high instep.

THE BROGUEING

Leather shoes are often refined with a perforation, the so-called brogueing. A distinction must be made between semi-brogue (half-brogue) and full-brogue, which is close to the well-known Budapester. The difference between semi-brogue and full-brogue is the shape of the toe cap: in the full-brogue it is winged, in the semi-brogue it is straight.